We have spent 4 nights in the city, staying in 2 hotels in different areas, separated by our trip to the Mekong Delta (described in another posting). From the moment we stepped off the plane it was evident that HCMC is very different from the other places we have visited in Vietnam. The first, very pleasant, change was the weather. We were welcomed with 32 degrees and sunshine, not something we had been acquainted with so far.
The comfortable taxi ride into the city showed us a very western-like scene of modern buildings, including high rise (such as the futuristic, impressively shaped and tallest, Financial Tower), flashy advertising hoardings and expensive cars. There is much more open space than Hanoi but one similarity was the incredible volume of traffic, especially motor cycles and scooters. The 7km journey to our hotel in the backpacker area took about 45 mins, which enabled us to gain a quite intimate view of city life on the streets.
The backpacker area was wonderfully lively, with fantastic choice of bars and restaurants. We soon made friends with a waitress called Mun (moon), who engaged us in lively banter and proudly showed us the menu she had produced on the computer. Then we met a Geordie called Andy over from KL for the weekend, followed by Aussies from Alice Springs. The only disturbing thing was to see a good many middle aged white men picking up young and attractive Vietnamese girls. We actually walked into one bar during our stay and realised very quickly that it was populated entirely by the above combination so didn’t stay.
On our first full day we decided to visit various sites on foot and by taxi. However, we were persuaded to accept an offer of city tour by cyclos (as in Hue). We agreed a price and our riders (Phung and Thao) set off through the busy traffic (you simply have to trust them to safely navigate through the hundreds of motor cycles) to the War Remnants Museum. This was extremely harrowing, because it portrays the American War in all its gory detail with horrific pictures and stories of the atrocities committed on the Vietnamese people and the long term effect still being suffered because of the use of toxins such as Agent Orange. It also reminded us that nothing has been learnt because similar abuses have been committed in Iraq and Afghanistan, the only difference being 40 years more development of the technology.
Phung and Thao waited for us and then took us to a wood lacquering factory, followed by a long ride in the hot sun to Cholon (China Town) to visit the huge market and Buddhist temple. A look at the Saigon River (although it was actually a canal we discovered later), then lunch at a local Vietnamese restaurant some way from our hotel. All was friendly, sharing several beers and stories until Phung (the senior rider, who spoke quite acceptable English) started to re-negotiate the price by showing us glowing comments written by previous clients in his little book and indicating on his watch that we had had 4 hours of their time. We knew from the guidebooks that this was a typical scam so argued our corner and it got very unpleasant. We eventually walked off, having given them what we thought the trip was worth, about a quarter of what he was asking – it spoilt the experience somewhat.
The 2nd hotel was close to the up market hotels, of which there are many, and City Hall. In fact it had a restaurant on the 17th floor where we had breakfast and an outside pool on the 16th floor with small selection of modern gym equipment where we spent our final afternoon in Saigon.
It was a wonderful time to be in the city in the lead up to Tet (the Vietnamese New Year) celebrations from 3rd to 5th Feb. This is their biggest event of the year and boy do they go to town. The central attraction is a wonderful flower festival taking up one of their principal boulevards, Nguyen Hue. We had a cocktail on the 23rd floor of the Sheraton Hotel and watched the opening ceremony which many thousands flocked to see. The 2nd night was just as busy and the sight of hundreds of motor cycles, many with a family of 4 on board, gridlocked along Le Loi (similar to the Champs Elysees) was absolutely amazing, notwithstanding the significant effect on air quality.
Another main attraction for tourists is Reunification Hall, which was the presidential palace up until the success of the North Vietnamese Liberation Army in 1975, when the tanks smashed through the railings shown on TVs around the World. It provides a memorable history lesson and fascinating collection of 60s and 70s furnishings, as well as the untouched communications rooms in the basement and an abandoned American helicopter still sitting on the 3rd floor roof.
HCMC is a thriving city with a feeling of wealth, mixed with the inevitable poverty symbolised by the constant attempts to sell. The people are generally slim, attractive, smiley, wear bright colours and love posing for photographs.
The slightly disappointing thing is that at times you look around and see a city that could easily be Paris or any number of other World cities. Then you see the volume of motor cycles and realise where you are. It’s been a wonderful introduction to Southeast Asia.
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